Plastic Pollution & the Fashion Industry
FASHION EDITION
By Jaclyn Tracy
WHAT DOES PLASTIC HAVE TO DO WITH FASHION?
EVERYTHING. The culprit is not only the plastic packaged frozen veggies you purchased at the grocery store, it’s also the clothes you wear.
Polyester, nylon, acrylic and other synthetic fibers are forms of plastic and represent 60 percent of the material used to make clothing. (1)
Synthetic fabrics—such as fleece jackets, athletic wear and most of fast fashion—release microfibers into water when washed with 40 percent of those microfibers entering rivers, lakes and oceans. (2) While all clothing sheds fibers when washed, synthetic particles—unlike wool and cotton—don’t biodegrade. (3)
Each year, more than a half-million metric tons of microfibers—the equivalent of 50 billion plastic water bottles—enter the ocean from the washing of synthetic textiles, according to the International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources. (3)
These microfibers are then ingested by fish while making their way up the food chain to humans. Americans ingest an estimated 74,000 to 121,000 microplastic particles every year. Air, bottled water and seafood were the biggest sources for ingested microplastics. (4) Over 30 percent of the fish caught for our dinner table have ingested plastic. (5)
WHO IS RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS?
Washing, solvents, and dyes used in manufacturing are responsible for 1/5 of industrial water pollution, and fashion accounts for 20-35% of microplastic flows into the ocean. (6)
Textiles are a much bigger problem than personal-care products, contributing 35 percent of primary microplastics released into the ocean, compared with 2 percent from personal care, according to IUCN. (3)
Companies are beginning to research and respond to backlash about micro fibers. Makers of sportswear and fleece jackets are trying to address concerns about tiny plastic particles from synthetic clothing finding their way into seafood and drinking water. While the plastics backlash has focused on single-use products like straws, bottles and coffee cups, synthetic clothing is gaining attention because such garments shed plastic every time they are washed. (3)
Adidas AG, Hennes & Mauritz AB and Patagonia Inc. are among companies funding research into how microfibers are created, shed and end up in the ocean. (3)
“We are very concerned about microfiber leakage from synthetic fibers,” H&M’s sustainability head Cecilia Brännsten said. “We use synthetic fibers of course, and so it’s our responsibility that they don’t end up where they shouldn’t be.” (3)
If we do not make dramatic changes in our own behavior and demand as consumers, by 2050 there will be more plastic in the ocean than fish.
WHAT IS THE SOLUTION?
As we seek solutions to the overall issue of plastic pollution, we need to recognize that our clothing is a major part of the problem and will need to be part of the solution as well. (1)
1. Microfiber shedding can most effectively be addressed when textiles are being designed.
Which is exactly why we talk about sustainable materials so often. It’s the easiest way to make a change now, stop buying polyester and other synthetic fibers. (3)
2. Shopping sustainably: dos and don’ts
Don’t buy new polyester, nylon, acrylic and other synthetic fibers—these are all forms of plastic.
Instead buy biodegradable materials, such as wool, silk, denim linen or organic cotton. This is harder than you think. Most clothing (especially fast fashion) is made of polyester.
3. View our Brands To Know series For recommendations of sustainable brands, we’ve got you! We’ve been collecting our favorite sustainable brands in our Brands To Know series. We release a new article each week. So stay tuned. And if you have not done so yet, sign up for our weekly newsletter.
4. Also, read the tips here to reduce plastic in your everyday life.
(2) Hartline, N.L., Bruce, N.J., Karba S.N., Ruff, E.O., Sonar, S.U., and Holden, P.A. (2016) Microfiber Masses Recovered from Conventional Machine Washing of New or Aged Garments, Environmental Science & Technology, Vol. 50, No.21, pp.11532-11538"
(3) WSJ (2019). The Tiny Plastics in Your Clothes Are Becoming a Big Problem.
(5) Susan Smillie (2017), From sea to plate: how plastic got into our fish.
(6) McKinsey, The State of Fashion (2020).
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Jaclyn Tracy's goal with SISTAIN is to make a greater difference by educating, activating and making sustainable consumerism not only easier, but aspirational. She believes success is in the collective impact, getting a whole group of people to change their behavior by committing to choosing sustainable brands, less waste and imperfect progress. Jaclyn is also the co-founder of Brand Effect, a holistic digital marketing agency.
